Khadi, The fabric of Freedom,
The language of Fashion.
From times immemorial, fabrics have been an integral part of our lives. It holds our sentiments and the aspect of self respect, together within the nature of the fiber, yarns and the process of making the fabrics. Through time, environment and culture, shaped the beauty of fabrics; but one thing remained constant and that is Khadi. The beauty of hand spinning and hand weaving fabrics that were once so intricate and fine, that a whole yardage of a muslin could pass through a finger ring.
It is our effort to present to you the history, present and the future of a tradition, culture and heritage that has now become our legacy. Khadi !
Khadi : The ancient legacy
Khadi, a hand-spun and hand-woven fabric, traces its origins to ancient India, where spinning and weaving were integral to rural life and traditional craftsmanship. Though the term “Khadi” itself was not used in antiquity, the practice of producing handwoven, natural fabrics was deeply rooted in India’s textile culture.
Archaeological evidence from the Indus Valley Civilization reveals the use of cotton textiles, highlighting India’s early mastery in spinning and weaving. These fabrics played a vital role in domestic life as well as in trade across Asia and beyond.
Over centuries, handloom traditions flourished, producing globally admired textiles such as muslins and silks during the medieval period. Known for its comfort, breathability, and suitability to the Indian climate, handwoven cloth remained a staple across communities.
The tradition of Khadi faced a steep decline under British colonial rule, as industrial policies systematically undermined local production in favor of imported machine-made goods. Despite this, it emerged as a powerful symbol of resistance and self-reliance during India’s freedom movement, preserving the essence of its artisanal past.
The figurine of Priest King with trefoil (three fold leaves design) from the site at Mohenjo-Daro. It appears that a robe, with or without embroidery, was worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm.
Archaeologists have found spindle whorls at both the Harappan and Mohenjo-daro sites, which indicates that the people of these civilizations used spindles to spin thread. Spindle whorls : These were made of terracotta and faience, and were used to spin thread. Evidence of cloth : Pieces of cloth have been found attached to the lids of silver vases and copper objects at Mohenjo-daro.
The methods of hand-spinning and weaving remained consistent through the centuries, making Khadi deeply rooted in India’s textile heritage.
Several Indian spinners and weavers working at a loom, Stipple engraving by P.W. Tomkins, 1797, after A.W. Devis (1762 - 1822)
The British colonization of India in the 18th and 19th centuries brought significant changes to India’s textile industry. East India Company imposed heavy tariffs on Indian textiles.
Under British colonial rule, traditional handloom industries declined as cheap, machine-made textiles from Britain flooded the Indian market. British investments in Indian cotton mills further displaced traditional weavers and affected local textile industries.
Cotton sheds and merchants in Bombay -by Francis Frith (1850 - 1870)
Tata's Empress mill in Nagpur in 1877. image courtesy : tata.com
Khadi : The Fabric of Freedom
1915-1920
When Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi arrived in India in 1915, after two decades in South Africa, he came armed with the philosophy he would use to lead the nation. He realized early the power of uniting people through movement of 'swadeshi' and 'Satyagraha' He urged Indians to boycott foreign goods and embrace Khadi to weaken the British economic hold on India.
M.K. Gandhi
1920s-1940s
Khadi became the uniform of the Indian independence movement. It was more than just a fabric; it symbolized simplicity, unity, and the struggle for freedom. Spinning Khadi was a form of protest and wearing it became a political statement.
A Bengali woman spinning ~ photo by Martin Hurlimann
1920
Mahatma Gandhi formally advocated boycott of British goods and promoted Khadi as an alternative to British textiles. Khadi became a symbol of national resistance. Freedom fighters, along with Gandhi, wore white Khadi during political demonstrations during the Civil Disobedience Movement.
Mahatma Gandhi at Mirzapur ~ June 9th, 1925, image credits : Wikimedia Commons
1921
Mahatma Gandhi started spinning at Mani Bhavan, Mumbai, and encouraged others to do so. He pioneered the use of a double spinning wheel designed to increase speed and control. Gandhi established the All India Spinners Association (AISA) to promote the production and use of Khadi, emphasizing the importance of the spinning wheel (Charkha) as a tool for economic independence and social reform.
Mahatma Gandhi at Mani Bhawan, Mumbai.
1922
Mahatma Gandhi emphasized the use of the spinning wheel as a symbol of self-reliance and economic independence. The campaign helped spread Khadi’s appeal. In 1922, Gandhi requested the Indian National Congress (INC) to start a Khadi department. Within two years, due to the large response to the initiative, a semi-independent body, the All India Khadi Board (AIKB), was formed, which liaised with the INC’s Khadi department at the provincial and district levels.
Mahatma Gandhi at Madurai, Tamil Nadu
1931
Mahatma Gandhi went to England with the object of reaching an agreement with the British on affairs regarding the Constitution for India. Gandhi wore Khadi as a symbol of resistance and national pride during the Round Table Conference with British officials. This gesture made an impact on the world and pronounced him the
Mahatma Gandhi at Round table conference, London
1934
Freedom Fighter Smt. Sarojini Naidu played a significant role in advocating the continuation of the promotion of Khadi and the boycott of British textiles. Her efforts were instrumental in reinforcing the message of self-reliance and the use of indigenous products. She traveled extensively across India, giving speeches and organizing events to promote Khadi. Her eloquence and passion helped galvanize public support for the movement. She worked closely with various grassroots organizations and weaving communities to encourage the production and use of Khadi.
Freedom Fighter Smt. Sarojini Naidu spinning yarns using a drop spindle.
1942
Quit India Movement was a mass civil disobedience movement demanding an end to British rule in India. The slogan "Do or Die" symbolized the urgency and intensity of the movement. Khadi was prominently used as a collective movement and as a symbol of the demand for British withdrawal from India. Though the British suppressed the uprising, it marked a turning point in India's freedom struggle, laying the foundation for eventual independence in 1947. The movement saw widespread use of Khadi and further emphasized its role in the struggle for independence.
The Quit India Movement, also known as the August Kranti, was launched on August 8, 1942, during World War II.
Khadi : Post Independence
Post 1947, India began to forge ahead with industrialization. Large mills and industries for large scale textile production of goods were established by Indian entrepreneurs. These mills mass produced cheaper textiles. Khadi had to compete with Indian machine-made fabric which became the choice of the common man. The reason being attributed to khadi production being extremely labor intensive making it more expensive thus increasing the final price of the product as opposed to a machine-made mass-produced fabric. Post independence khadi reduced its patronage only amongst politicians, social activist and academia in form of kurta, nehru jacket and saree.
Independent India : Flag hoisted at Red Fort
1956
The Indian government established Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) to promote and organize Khadi production, aiming to integrate traditional practices with modern methods for economic development.
Khadi Village & Industries Commission
1960s
Various government initiatives and subsidies were introduced through KVIC to support Khadi production, focusing on rural employment and economic development.
Rural women spinning on Peti Charkha
1989
KVIC collaborated with popular Indian designers, marking a significant milestone for Khadi's evolution in India. These apparel were distributed through nearly 5000 Khadi outlets, aimed at showcasing Khadi’s potential and its unique selling proposition of being a completely natural, non-synthetic fabric. To elevate Khadi’s image from being seen as unfashionable, KVIC organized a big fashion show in Mumbai in 1989, the first of its kind dedicated to Khadi.
Khadi Indian Flag being made on Loom.
2000
A campaign was launched to revitalize all 7,000 KVIC stores across India, making Khadi more trendy and accessible. To assist in developing a new line and brand of Khadi clothing, KVIC brought in top fashion designers to ensure the fabric’s appeal to a contemporary audience.
Khadi fashion show conducted by KVIC
Khadi : High Fashion
2021
In 2021, Centre of Excellence for Khadi was setup by KVIC, under ministry of MSME at NIFT, Ministry of Textiles.
Main objective of this project is to build a new narrative around khadi, transforming it for the new generation which gives the Khadi Institutions an edge over the rest of the world in terms with design and aesthetics, all while maintaining the legacy of Khadi.
An upcycled jacket showcased at the Moscow Fashion Week 2025