Charkha : The symbol, the icon and the testament
The charkha, from the Persian 'charkh' meaning “wheel,” has been central to India’s textile tradition, transforming from a simple spinning tool into a symbol of self-reliance and national identity.
Woman Spinner of Jaipur, circa : 1904 image credit : Gobindram Oodeyram, Artists, Jaipur
Earliest records trace the spinning wheel to a 13th-century Iraqi manuscript, with the first Indian reference in Futuh-us-Salatin (1350). Traditionally wooden, the charkha used a hand-turned wheel and spindle to twist fibres into yarn.
The spindle charkha introduced a key innovation: a flyer-and-bobbin or direct spindle mechanism that enabled continuous spinning, ideal for domestic use.
A peti charkha in use, efficient, compact and reliable for spinning anywhere, anytime.
In the 1930s, Mahatma Gandhi developed the compact box charkha during his imprisonment, turning spinning into a quiet act of resistance and the charkha into an icon of the Swadeshi movement.
An ambar charkha in use, Pilakhuwa, Uttar Pradesh, c. 2025
The Ambar charkha was a later innovation that spun multiple threads at once; the New Model Charkha (1965) added a durable metal frame; and the Solar Charkha (2016) brought renewable energy to rural spinning.
From ancient fiber-work to sustainable livelihoods, the charkha’s journey reflects India's enduring spirit of craft, innovation, and resilience.
The Process of Hand spinning
Handspinning begins with the preparation of raw fiber like cotton, wool, or silk (filaments), which is cleaned and carded to align the fibers and remove impurities. The spinner sets up a spindle or charkha and begins drawing out the fiber by hand, controlling the thickness and consistency in the count of yarns. The fiber is twisted through manual spinning, which strengthens it into continuous yarn. As the yarn forms, it is wound onto the spindle or bobbin. If needed, two or more spun threads are combined in a process called plying to create a stronger, balanced yarn ready for weaving or knitting.
The Process of Dyeing
Natural dyeing: As per specific shade requirement, we begin the natural dyeing process with the selection of a suitable dye source, such as leaves, roots, bark, or flowers (e.g., indigo leaves, madder roots, turmeric, pomegranate rind).
The chosen material is cleaned, chopped, and either soaked or boiled to extract the natural pigment. Before dyeing, the yarn/fabric is treated with a mordant like alum or iron to help the dye bond with the fiber. The extracted dye is strained and transferred to a dye bath, which is heated to a controlled temperature.
The yarn/fabric is then immersed into the dye bath, where it absorbs the color over time, often requiring occasional stirring for evenness. Once dyed, the yarn/fabric is removed, rinsed thoroughly, and dried in the shade to preserve the subtlety and richness of natural color.
Azo-free vat dyeing: Due to few constraints like availability of natural dye sources of specific shades, in Khadi we often use Vat dyeing process for dyeing of handspun yarns or handwoven fabrics. In azo-free vat dyeing, the process starts by selecting an azo-free dye, which avoids releasing harmful amines.
The dye is dissolved in water and combined with a reducing agent like sodium hydrosulfite and an alkali such as caustic soda to create a vat solution that turns the dye into its soluble, reduced form. Meanwhile, the fabric or yarn is soaked to ensure even dye uptake.
The wetted fabric is dipped into the vat solution, allowing the dye to penetrate the fibers. Once removed, it is exposed to air, where the dye oxidizes and becomes fixed, revealing the final color. To deepen the shade, multiple dips and oxidations may be repeated. After the desired color is achieved, the fabric is washed thoroughly to remove residues and then dried.
The Process of Weaving
Handloom weaving starts with warping, where long threads are measured and arranged lengthwise onto a frame or mill. These threads are then dressed onto the loom by threading them through heddles and the reed in a specific order based on the design, this is called drafting and denting. The weft yarn is wound onto bobbins or pirns, which are inserted into a shuttle. Once the loom is fully set up and tension of warp yarns is adjusted, the weaving begins with the shedding motion, where a set of warp threads is lifted to create an opening called the shed. Through this shed, the weft yarn is inserted using the shuttle. After each pass of the weft, the reed is used to beat it into place, compacting the fabric. As per the required design of fabric, a weave plan is created. All these loom settings are done according to this specific plan to achieve the design. The woven portion is gradually rolled forward, and the warp is advanced to continue the process. Once the desired length is achieved, the fabric is cut from the loom, the edges are secured, and finishing steps such as washing or stretching may follow depending on its end use.
Khadi - The Fabric
Traditionally hand-spun and hand-woven, khadi is a fabric known for its versatile properties as well as its historical importance. The word khadi derives from khaddar, another name for handspun and handwoven cloth is India’s symbol of self-reliance and sustainable craftsmanship .
It is made from natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. Its variations; fine, medium, and heavy are achieved by fiber type, yarn count and the region where it is woven . Each region across India specializes in distinct khadi types suited to climate, traditional weaving practices, specific products and purposes.
Fine Khadi is usually made from high-count cotton or silk yarns ranging from 80s to 120s count and is known for its soft, breathable, and delicate texture. It is woven in regions like West Bengal, Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), and Gujarat.
Bengal produces the famous Muslin Khadi, often in counts exceeding 100s, used for saris, dupattas, stoles, and dress materials. It is woven as a plain fabric or in checks and stripes and can have extra motifs like in Jamdani and Dhakai.
Varanasi weavers craft fine cotton and silk khadi ideal for saris and fabrics for apparel or home linen. Gujarat, especially in areas like Saurashtra, weaves fine khadi shirts, kurtas, and light dupattas using mercerized cotton and mulberry silk blends.
Medium-weight Khadi, with counts ranging from 40s to 60s, is mainly made from cotton and sometimes blends of cotton and Tussar silk. It is widely woven in Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, and Bihar.
The fabric is slightly textured and durable, suited for saris, garments like shirts , kurtas, trousers and home furnishings like towels, napkins and cushion covers. Bihar produces Tussar khadi, blending handspun cotton warp with hand reeled Tussar silk weft, resulting in rich textured fabrics.
Heavy-weight Khadi is made from low-count yarns ranging from 10s to 30s and includes cotton, wool, and wool-cotton blends ideally suited for Khes, Kholl(quilt cover) and Durrie.
It is traditionally woven in Punjab, Haryana, and parts of Uttar Pradesh . Wool khadi is prominent in Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and Rajasthan and is used to weave shawls, jackets, coats, and blankets. Blended khadi—such as wool-cotton or silk-wool—is also used for winter jackets and upholstery textiles in northern states.
Khadi - Surface Techniques on the fabric
Khadi fabric can take up a variety of surface embellishment techniques, depending on the design intent. These techniques not only enhance the appearance, texture, and tactile quality of the fabric but also to add narrative and cultural value. Surface treatments may include dyeing, printing, embroidery, patchwork, appliqué, and other decorative processes.
Depending on the design requirement, Khadi Institutions often collaborate with regional artisans and craft clusters across India. The fabric may be block printed or screen printed, tie-dyed or ikat dyed, incorporating traditional knowledge systems and aesthetics.
In addition, the use of localized hand embroidery, such as Kantha from Bengal, Soof and Sindhi stitch from Gujarat, or Kasuti from Karnataka adds a layer of cultural specificity and handmade character. The integration of such techniques into Khadi not only adds value to the fabric but also supports artisan livelihood and preserves craft traditions.