Indigenous Fibres of India
A Research and Development Project
Indigenous fibers are deeply rooted in the cultural and craft traditions of India. Supporting local fiber production helps in preserving centuries-old craft traditions, ensuring the survival of skilled artisans and their invaluable knowledge.
The Center of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK) has embarked on a significant project to explore and incorporate Indigenous Fibers of India into the Khadi portfolio. The indigenous fibres like Kala Cotton of Kutch, Brown Cotton of Dharwad, Hemp, Harsil Wool, Changthang Goat Wool from Ladakh, can be part of Khadi due to the inherent nature of hand-spinning yarn for khadi. Moreover, the initiative aligns with the global push towards slow fashion and environmentally responsible textile production.
The project commenced with extensive research on various indigenous fibers, yarns, and traditional textiles across different regions of India. A meticulous evaluation was conducted to assess the availability, feasibility and viability of each fiber, ensuring that they could be effectively sourced, hand-spun and handwoven, aligning with the vision of Khadi.
As part of a strengthened design and development approach, all sourced indigenous fiber yarns were tested at the Mahatma Gandhi Institute for Rural Industrialization (MGIRI), a reputed and government-backed institution dedicated to advancing sustainable and rural industries.
Pashmina Wool
Pashmina wool, sourced from the Changthangi goats of Ladakh, is a symbol of luxury and heritage. Seeking value addition through innovation, research was conducted into traditional Indian crafts and Tangaliya craft from Gujarat was selected.
The stole was developed by Lavji Bhai Parmar, a master weaver and recipient of the Prestigious Padma Shri award in 2025, in collaboration with Mehta Khadi Udyog Gruh, a recognized Khadi Institution based in Surendranagar, Gujarat.
Harsil Wool
Harsil wool has high CSP values indicating excellent yarn integrity, making it ideal for textiles such as shawls, blankets, and heavier garments for colder climates. ‘Chhaal’ is a collection created exclusively using Harsil wool, celebrating its raw character and natural palette.
This collection was developed in collaboration with Uttarakhand Khadi and village industries Board, Bhogpur, Dehradun and Bhal Nalkantha Khadi Gramodyog Mandal, Ranpur, Gujarat for experimentation.
Hemp
Hemp exhibits low elongation and tensile strength, suggesting a stiffer, coarser yarn better suited for structured products like accessories, upholstery, or bags.
Hemp Fibers were procured from Uttarakhand Bamboo & Fiber Development Board, a state nodal agency in Dehradun, Uttarakhand. The yarns were spun at Haryana Khadi Gramudyog Sangh in Gharaunda, Haryana and the weaving was carried out at Amba Gramodyog Sewa Samiti, Pilakhua, Uttar Pradesh.