Neelachal Exportable Khadi Gramodyog Sangh
In the sacred weaver’s village of Nuapatna, Odisha, where nearly 95% of the population lives and breathes Ikat, rises a Khadi institution that doesn’t just ride tradition, it reimagines it. Founded in 1990, Neelachal Exportable Khadi Gramodyog Sangh was born not from lineage, but from vision. Its founder, Mr. Bhagirathi Nanda, a graduate and law degree holder, didn’t hail from a weaver’s family. Yet he dared to build what would become a torchbearer of modern Khadi, rooted in the most ancient threads of India.
One of its most iconic contributions ,saris woven with the verses of the Bhagavad Gita—letter by letter, motif by motif. These are not prints, but threads that preach, echoing scripture with silk. Paired with striking color palettes and refined craftsmanship, Neelachal’s products proudly stand apart even from other Khadi Institutions (KIs) in the same region.
There are significantly 5 big communities involved in the entire process, from the making of the fabric to the point of selling the products and fabrics. They are called, Tanti - weaver community, Kosa Katia - Reeler community, Rangani - Dyer community, Dutta Patera - Merchant community, Asini Patera - Big Merchant community.
Products of Neelachal
Katia Chader
Katia Chader is a unique and durable textile product made using Katiya Tussar Silk, known for its rugged texture and natural elegance. Extremely long-lasting with a lifespan of 20–25 years.
Tussar Dhoti - Jodo
The dhotis are made with fine Malda Tussar Silk which usually showcases a beautiful natural Tussar sheen and beautiful textures made with Dobby Border Design.
Tussar Scarf
The Tussar scarves are made with fine Tussar Malda Silk which are plain woven, with mulberry silk colored stripes to give a distinctive striped look to the scarves.
Design Development in Weft
In the Ikat process of the traditional weaving of Nuapatna, weavers collaborate with local design artisans to create intricate patterns in the weft yarns before weaving. This is a crucial step in the Ikat technique where the design is dyed into the yarns themselves.
Know your Khadi Institution
Design tying and dyeing process
The Design motifs are marked and sections are tied tightly with impermeable threads to resist dye penetration during the coloring process.
Pirn winding
Pirn winding involves transferring dyed yarn from a bunch onto small wooden spindles using a rotating stick. The yarn is gradually separated into finer strands, and the final single strand that is already resist-dyed, is wound onto a pirn using a charkha. This pirn is then placed in the shuttle for weaving.
Weaving
The Khadi institution has 24 traditional pit looms for intricated Ikat weaving, 31 semi-automatic frame looms, 35 reeling machines, 1 warping machine, this signifies the potential that the Khadi institution has in terms with khadi textile production.
Silk Reeling
The silk reeling is predominantly carried out by the reeling community which is called Kosa Katia.
Made from the finest silks of Nuapatna
Handspun, Handwoven & Handmade by the artisans of Khadi Institutions
.png)
